New motorcycles cost too damn much. I’ve said that many times before and would argue that it’s at the heart of why the industry in the US and the UK is struggling.
By and large, the work-around for consumers is to buy used. That has its drawbacks, of course, requiring that you do a little more groundwork and be willing to forgo the latest and greatest in terms of technowhizzbangery.
Here’s the thing, though: you probably don’t need most of the fancy stuff that’s on a modern motorcycle. No, really. ABS is good, traction control is nice. But you don’t need 72 modes, front and rear cameras, and a subscription service that calls your mom when you drop the bike.
Meanwhile, in terms of the foundational stuff – engine performance, handling, braking – things have remained pretty much the same for the last 15 years or so. For most of us, the overall experience of a brand new Kawasaki Versys 1100, for example, won’t be much different from that of a first-generation Kawasaki Versys 1000.
And that’s where this article comes in – helping you do some of the groundwork. Even with used bike prices currently soaring, it is possible to find bikes for less than £5,000 that were at the top of the game not so long ago. Here are five that I’d choose.
Practicality is the point here, I’ve not included any exotica. These are bikes that have good reputations in terms of comfort, quality, and reliability. They’ve all had decently long runs, and/or shared components with other models in the brand’s line-up. So finding parts and knowledge shouldn’t be too difficult.
The autobahn king: Kawasaki GTR1400 (2007-2022)
What is it
Also known as the 1400GTR, Concours 14, or ZG1400 – depending on market – the GTR1400 is in many ways a (slightly) tamer, comfier, more practical ZZR1400. Powered by a liquid-cooled 1352cc inline four-cylinder engine, it claims peak outputs of 152 bhp and 102 lb-ft of torque.
There are two generations: 2007-2010, then 2010-2022. You won’t actually find any examples from those later model years in the UK. Emissions regulations pushed the GTR1400 out of Europe in 2018.
Why you want one
The fastest that I have ever ridden on a public road (as far as I’m willing to admit) was 147 mph. That was on a German autobahn, of course, astride a GTR1400. Things were a little chaotic at that speed, as you might expect, but the bike is all-day smooth at 120 mph and below.
To that end, the bike is probably the comfiest on this list. The seat is massive – for both rider and passenger – and there’s an enormous, electronically adjustable screen to hide behind. Heated grips come standard, too.
Panniers also come standard, and a top box can be found on later editions. Later editions also came with a keyless fob (which felt a bit unnecessary because you still needed a physical key to open the luggage or fuel cap).
The engine is bulletproof, the transmission reliable (albeit a little agricultural, like most Kawasaki transmissions), and build quality excellent – for the most part. Shaft drive means no chain maintenance.
The main disadvantages of the bike come in its weight and size. It is a little more than a meter wide with mirrors extended, which puts the kibosh on a lot of filtering opportunities, and it weighs 304 kg.
What to watch out for
The GTR1400 was well built where it counts, but not impervious to corrosion. Kawasaki has a habit of feeling that the less important parts of a bike are really unimportant. Be sure to examine any prospective purchase in good light.
Related to the attitude mentioned above, Kawasaki has always – to this day – employed side stands and center stands that don’t seem to be up to the task of supporting their bike’s weight. Check to make sure the bike you’re buying isn’t leaning too far over; you probably don’t have the necessary tools to replace a sidestand and I can tell you from experience that paying someone else to do it is costly.
In addition, warped front brake discs are a common complaint from owners. The bike’s weight and capacity for speed put a lot of strain on the stoppers. New discs will cost you about £280 a piece.
Something you might not bother replacing is the tire pressure monitoring system. The batteries in the sensor unit are sealed. A new unit costs in excess of £150 – per wheel. The easiest thing to do is just pay attention to tire pressure the old-fashioned way. Alternatively, old boys on forums have found it’s possible to cut the sensor open and solder in a watch battery.
Also on the tech side of things is the keyless fob. Interference can prevent the bike from starting. The GTR1400 was sold with an emergency spare key for just this contingency; make sure the seller gives that to you.
Lastly, less something to worry about but more to consider is the fact that the bike’s monocoque frame goes over the engine. That means that getting access for valve clearances and the like is a ball ache.
The survivor: Kawasaki Z1000SX (2011-2024)
What is it
Also known as the Ninja 1000 SX (which is what it was called in the UK from 2020-2024), Ninja 1000, or Z1000S, the Z1000SX is arguably the truest of sport tourers on this list. Powered by a liquid-cooled 1043cc inline four-cylinder engine it claims peak outputs of 138-140 bhp (depending on generation) and 80-82 lb-ft of torque.
The Z1000SX is derived from the naked Z1000 (2003-2016), which means that the lineage of its bulletproof engine stretches all the way back to the early 1990s, in the form of the ZX-9R (1994-2003).
There are four generations of Z1000SX: 2010-2013, 2014-2016, 2017-2019, then the Ninja 1000SX, which was the same bike with a different name, from 2020-2024. In 2025, it was replaced by the Ninja 1100SX.
The Z1000SX has consistently been the best-selling sport tourer in the UK for most of the last 10 years. Often that’s been because it was the only sport tourer. While most manufacturers abandoned the segment in the 2010s, or sought to change it in producing adventure sport tourers, Kawasaki held on and reaped the awards.
In 2022, it gained a competitor in the form of the ‘excellent but not available for less than £5k’ Suzuki GSX-S1000GT. Most sport touring fans still prefer the Kawasaki.
Why you want one
On paper, this isn’t the most powerful bike on the list, but in application it’s easily the fastest. Lighter and more nimble than the others, it is best at holding to the traditional ethos of a sport tourer: a sport bike made a little comfier and a little more relevant to the road. There is still plenty of “sport” to be found here. The Z1000SX is a bike that MOVES.
The bike’s popularity over the years means that resale values are a little higher than you might expect. For under £5k you’re going to struggle to find a third-generation model. And you can completely forget about a fourth-gen.
The good news is that very little has changed over the years. Dig through various reviews and you’ll find that outside of aesthetic tweaks and the odd bit of tech here and there (the third generation gained cornering traction control, for example), not a whole hell of a lot changed with the Z1000SX during its run. Arguably, there isn’t even that much difference between it and the current Ninja 1100SX. Kawasaki pretty much got it right the first time and was wise enough not to meddle too much with its winning formula.
That said, some folks criticized the first generation, in particular, for engine vibration. Other things to consider is the fact that the Z1000SX is more of a one-person sport tourer than a two-up long-distance machine. The passenger accommodation is more sport-bikey than with others on this list.
What to watch out for
See above for notes on Kawasaki’s dismissive attitude toward sidestands and non-integral fastenings. Along those lines, the headlight on first-gen models is notoriously poor. The fix there is pretty obvious: either get an LED kit or auxiliary lights.
Another minor gripe comes in the fact that the OEM panniers are mounted on racks on the first-gen models, as opposed to the more integrated ‘clean mount’ system that’s been used since 2014. That means that the boxes sit out quite wide, making filtering more difficult.
More serious concerns come in multiple reports of seized exhaust valves. The exhaust butterfly valve is susceptible to road grime and can seize shut. The old boys claim this is a relatively easy fix – up to you whether you want to believe them. One way to identify if the bike is facing this issue is if the FI (fuel injection) light is on.
Lastly, speaking again to Kawasaki’s occasionally penny-pinching ways, the rear shock is cheap-o and will need to be replaced sooner than later (incidentally, the same issue applies to those of us with Versys 1000s).
The underdog: Honda CBF1000 (2006-2018)
What is it
Easily the least sexy bike on this list, and a contender for one of the least sexy motorcycles of all time, the CBF1000 is classic 2000s Honda: kinda boring and almost completely indestructible.
You would never know it from feel, but the engine is a detuned 998cc liquid-cooled inline four-cylinder engine lifted from the markedly not-boring Fireblade. Claimed peak performance in this application is 96.5-106 bhp (depending on generation) and 69 lb-ft of torque.
There are two generations: 2006-2010, then 2010-2018. In some markets that second generation is known as the CBF1000F. A GT version existed that added lower fairings, giving the CBF1000 a more authentic sport tourer look, but these are very hard to find.
Why you want one
The CBF1000 was inspired by the CBF600 (2004-2013), which was dreamed up by Honda’s German operations as a response to the BMW F 800 ST – a bike that, as I’ve said before, didn’t actually need a response other than “Nah, what else ya got?”
With this knowledge alone you can probably guess that the CBF1000 is a practical mother-hugger. Affordable and reliable, as well as reliable, bulletproof, and reliable. But underneath that it is also capable of being quite a lot of fun.
The CBF1000’s engine performance figures are far from impressive compared to others on this list, but its torque is meaty, linear, and arrives quite low in the rev range. I owned a first-gen CBF1000 for a few years and every time I rode it I would be hit with the thought of: “Whoa, I forgot how much fun this bike can be!”
And did I mention that it’s bulletproof? When I bought my secondhand CBF1000 back in 2020, I foolishly believed SuperBike Factory when they told me it had been serviced before delivery. I rode it about 400 miles before bothering to check the oil, whence I discovered that the sump was almost dry. The internals had basically been surviving on tar. I did the old “three oil changes in 150 miles” trick to clear out the gunk and the bike never once had an issue.
Add to this the fact that it is easy to work on and comes equipped with a tool roll that has everything you need to service the bike and chain. It even has a sparkplug socket.
In terms of value, the CBF1000 is one of the best on this list. You can find models in very good condition for well under the £5k cutoff.
Outside of the aesthetics, and its one notorious issue (see below), probably the biggest drawbacks to the CBF1000 come in the fact it was largely built to serve as an affordable all-rounder. As a result, the stock windscreen isn’t great, nor is the seat.
What to watch out for
The CBF1000’s famous Achilles heel is its stator. In both generations they are (in)famous for giving up the ghost. If you own one of these bikes for very long, you will probably end up replacing the stator. You’re looking at £150-£200 for a decent aftermarket alternative. Don’t buy OEM; it will be just as problematic as the one you’ve replaced.
First-gen models that have been left in the rain for long periods (ie, parked outside and not ridden for a while) can suffer from water collecting in the sparkplug recesses. This can cause misfires and – as was the case with my ‘serviced’ bike – rusty plugs that are nerve-wracklingly difficult to remove.
Another less common problem is that the bike’s Combined ABS system can result in the center pistons on the front brake calipers seizing if the bike has been sat for a long time (eg, several months). Make sure all wheels spin freely when inspecting the bike.
The Brit: Triumph Sprint GT (2011-2016)
What is it
The Sprint GT – sometimes known as the Sprint GT 1050 – is, in my opinion, the best-looking bike on this list. It’s also the only one that isn’t an inline four.
Driven by a 1050cc liquid-cooled inline triple, the Sprint GT claimed peak outputs of 128 bhp and 80 lb-ft of torque. Made during the hey-day of Triumph’s love for three-cylinder machines that actually felt like three-cylinder machines (as opposed to the current trend of trying to make them feel like twins), its power delivery was torquey, smooth, and wonderful.
The bike was derived from the less comfortable Sprint ST 1050 (2005-2010). Panniers came standard on the GT. In later years, as the bike started to feel quite old in the tooth, Triumph tried to make it more appealing by adding a colossal top box and heated grips to the list of standard items.
Why you want one
The Sprint GT has been a regular part of my ‘What I Want’ daydreaming for at least 11 years now. Its ergonomics are more aggressive than the other bikes on this list: a 21-percent forward lean compared to 8 percent on the CBF1000, 10 percent on the FJR1300, 12 percent on the GTR1400, and 13 percent on the Z1000SX (according to Cycle-Ergo.com). That means that, despite its length, width (especially when carrying panniers), and weight, it is a machine that accommodates and encourages hustling through corners.
The Sprint GT was developed right at the time when Triumph seemed to decide that quality was going to be its ‘thing.’ As such, it it has a premium feeling that’s a step up even from luxury machines like the FJR1300 and GTR1400. It’s comparable to those two, as well, in size. There is a lot of room for rider and passenger on a Sprint GT, with some of the comfiest seats I’ve ever experienced.
The bike’s delightful three-cylinder engine offers a sense of character that really stands out. Handling, too, is excellent – another thing we’ve come to expect from Triumph bikes.
The main things that might put someone off a Sprint GT are its riding ergonomics and the fact that the known issues tend to be a little more serious than with other bikes.
What to watch out for
The Sprint GT had a decent run, and used components from other models, but it’s worth considering the fact that parts availability may still be challenging. Consider Triumph’s sales volume; 2016 – the last year of the Sprint GT’s run – was a record-breaking year for Triumph, which saw the manufacturer churn out 56,300 units. Compare that to the 5.15 million motorcycles sold by Yamaha in the same year.
In each of those numbers the brand’s sport tourer will have represented a very tiny portion of sales, but it’s fair to assume that Yamaha’s tiny portion was considerably higher than Triumph’s. Point is, you’re drawing from a smaller pool, and Triumph, unfortunately, has some unique parts which are known to be problematic.
The stand-out one of those is the bike’s eccentric adjuster. Designed to be a clever means of adjusting chain tension, it is known to give owners the rage. It needs a special tool and should be greased at every service. If not, the adjuster will seize. Fixing it is notoriously difficult.
Speaking of things that need to be greased, the rear suspension linkages need regular attention. Otherwise, they, too, will seize.
On the electrical side of things, Sprint GTs have a reputation for less-than-great regulator rectifiers (not as bad as with the CBF1000), a wiring loom that can chafe against the headstock, and starter motors that can fail. That last one requires an engine-out fix, so if you hear “clack-whirr” when trying to start the bike just turn and walk away.
The police officer’s choice: Yamaha FJR1300 (2001-2020)
What is it
Still listed for sale on Yamaha’s US website (albeit as a 2024 model), the FJR1300 was/is one of the stalwart icons of sport touring, managing to mix all the positives of the other bikes here with a famously long-life engine. Its all-day comfort, agility, and workhorse reputation has made it a popular choice for many police forces around the world.
Powered by a 1298cc liquid-cooled inline four, it claims peak outputs of 144 bhp and 102 lb-ft of torque. It’s a hefty beast (roughly 300 kg, depending on the specific version) but largely that’s because you get the benefit of shaft drive.
A direct descendent of the FJR1200 (1986-1996), there were four generations of FJR1300: 2001-2006, 2007-2012, 2013-2015, then 2016 onward. Up until 2016, the FJR1300 had a five-speed transmission. Alongside the various generations of the bike you have multiple versions, identified with confusing letter codes: AS, AE, and ES. The AE/AS models have semi-automatic transmissions; the ES models have electronic suspensions.
ABS was standard from 2006, heated grips from 2012, LED lighting and traction control from 2013.
Why you want one
Do you like good things? Then you’ll like the FJR1300. It’s the sort of bike that could serve as a litmus test for sanity. Give a rider an FJR1300 for a week or two to get to know; if they come back with anything other than praise they are not right in the head, and should be sectioned.
In terms of size the FJR1300 looks and feels a little closer to the Z100SX and CBF1000, while somehow managing to be as roomy and comfortable as the GTR1400 and the Sprint GT. Arguably more so than the latter because of its more relaxed riding position. It goes like stink, handles brilliantly, and has a reputation for reliability that exceeds even the Honda. Why wouldn’t you want one?
Indeed, probably the biggest drawback to the FJR1300 is the fact that – because it is so well-built, so durable, and so desirable – resale values tend to be pretty high. That means that finding a good one for under £5,000 means focusing on primarily the earlier generations.
What to watch out for
Not much. The FJR1300 was never offered with a top box from the factory because overloading one could theoretically lead to cracks in the rear subframe. However, a lot of owners added aftermarket top boxes and never experienced issues.
Wiring looms on second-generation models were known to corrode but this issue was resolved with a recall. If the bike is running in 2026 it’s probably not an issue. Equally, if you have a second-generation bike whose linkages aren’t seized, you probably don’t now need to worry about the lack of adequate greasing they received at the factory (but be alert to the issue, just in case).
Honorable mention: Honda VFR800 (1998-2021)
I had finished the above article when I suddenly realized that I would be drummed out of the Royal Society for Motorcycle Enthusiasts were I to write something about sport tourers that didn’t mention the archetype: the VFR800.
A direct descendant of the VFR750 (1986-1997), the VFR800 was not the world’s first sport-touring motorcycle but it unquestionably defined the genre. Powered by a 782cc liquid-cooled V4 engine, it provided an experience that was unique and – for many – addictive. Claimed peak outputs were 107 bhp and 60 lb-ft of torque.
Also known as the Interceptor in some markets, there were three generations of VFR800: 1998-2001, then 2002-2013, 2014-2021 (also known as the VFR800F in these years). The second- and third-generation models featured Honda’s unique VTEC system.
The engines are known to have incredible longevity, assuming they’ve been regularly serviced. Valve clearances are famously complex and therefore expensive, however, so some owners will have ignored the job. Outside of that and occasional regulator/rectifier issues, real problems are few.
I have never ridden a VFR800, but did toy with the idea of owning its adventure-tourer sibling, a VFR800X Crossrunner. I came very close to buying it but thankfully came to my senses at the last minute. I realize this is blasphemous, but for me the bike lacked character.
Don’t worry about mileage
All of the bikes mentioned here were built to last, with engines that can clock up big mileages. As such, you shouldn’t be at all concerned about buying one with, say, 40,000 miles on the clock. In the case of the FJR1300 and GTR1400 (and VFR800), their engines are known to be reliable well past the 100,000-mile mark.
The main thing to be concerned about is regular servicing. It would be nice if someone could provide a full service history, but it’s my experience that those can be faked, and for bikes of this age it’s totally normal for owners to want to do their own work.
So, you will have to rely on whatever mechanical knowledge you have, as well as your gut instinct, and ability to assess the honesty of the seller. Yes, there’s a bit of a gambling element here, but there is in every purchase you make – be that a new bike, a used bike, or chocolate cookies. And the upside here is that, at less than £5,000, the gamble probably won’t be earth-shattering if things don’t go right.
Head to head
| Engine and output | Summary | |
| Kawasaki GTR1400 | 1352cc inline four, 152 bhp, 102 lb-ft | Shaft drive and electric screen make 500-mile days effortless. |
| Kawasaki Z1000SX | 1043cc inline four, 140 bhp, 82 lb-ft | Track-day performance with comfort and panniers |
| Honda CBF1000 | 998cc inline four, 106 bhp, 69 lb-ft | Bulletproof reliability and cheap insurance. |
| Triumph Sprint GT | 1050cc inline triple, 128 bhp, 80 lb-ft | Exotic without actually being exotic. |
| Yamaha FJR1300 | 1298cc inline four, 144 bhp, 102 lb-ft | Impossible to dislike. May end up out-living you. |
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